The History Behind The Mississippi Sandwich That Anthony Bourdain Called 'Hard To Beat'

Rule of thumb: if Anthony Bourdain calls a dish "hard to beat," it's got to be good. Known for his fearlessness in both travel and taste, Bourdain had a knack for finding the best restaurants that captured the heart of a place through its food. On his journey to Jackson, Mississippi, for his CNN show, "Parts Unknown," he discovered a sandwich at the Big Apple Inn that captivated him, a seemingly modest meal bursting with Southern soul and flavor. This sandwich represented extraordinary culinary tradition with the simplest ingredients, much like the iconic po' boy in New Orleans, the bánh mì in Vietnam, or even a simple fast food burger in California. These sandwiches shared something beyond flavor, helping to connect Bourdain to the people, culture, and legacy of their regions.

This Mississippi sandwich, simply called "ears," features a pillowy-soft bun topped with crispy coleslaw, homemade hot sauce, a slather of mustard, and pig ears. The chewy pig ears have a juicy flavor reminiscent of fatty bacon, and the cool crunch of coleslaw contrasts with the buttery bun and tangy sauces to create a harmonious bite that Bourdain loved. Big Apple Inn's Mississippi pig ear sandwich wasn't just a favorite; it was an unforgettable slice of history and heart.

Mississippi's famous pig ear sandwich is more than a meal; it's a rite of passage into Southern culture and ranks among Anthony Bourdain's favorite hidden gems in America. Historically, pig ear sandwiches were a staple for those who couldn't afford much else, as pig ears were often tossed aside as scraps. In the early 20th century, when wealth was scarce across the South, cooks turned to using every part of the animal, including ears, which were often discarded by butchers. The pig ear sandwich became a symbol of resilience and ingenuity, marking its place on tables across Mississippi and showing that great food could come from even the humblest origins.

Today, cooking with pig ears has seen a resurgence, both in Mississippi and beyond, thanks to chefs and home cooks who appreciate its unique texture and flavor. Preparing pig ears involves a special technique to make them palatable. Once upon a time, the pig ears would need to be boiled for nearly two days to get them tender, but now a pressure cooker makes short work of the task. For Bourdain, this sandwich and its main meat were a perfect example of Southern grit and creativity, and a true celebration of Mississippi's culinary traditions.