The Storage Mistake Giving You Mushy Tinned Anchovies

Tinned anchovies have always been a somewhat controversial ingredient in the United States. These tiny fish are filleted, heavily salted, then packed in oil and sold in a tin can. Admittedly, they don't have the most appealing appearance, but they really do add a burst of umami flavor to so many dishes: Caesar dressing, sauces, and even pizzas. However, proper storage is essential, and in the United States, anchovies are often sold on store shelves, though they actually fare much better when stored in the refrigerator. If you cannot find refrigerated anchovies, make sure you pop those shelved ones in the fridge as soon as you get home.

Yes, anchovies are shelf-stable, just not in the same way that other types of canned fish are (but no, you won't get sick from eating them). That mushy texture is actually a result of the way they're stored in the U.S. If they remain refrigerated, though, that original texture remains intact, and it all has to do with microbial growth.

Small European grocery stores in the U.S. most likely sell their anchovies in refrigerated tins because that's how they're sold in Europe. That mushy, fishy taste that develops in U.S. anchovies is a direct result of a lack of refrigeration, and storing them properly might cause Americans to use this salty ingredient in surprising recipes.

Unlike other canned goods, which often include ingredients that have been cooked in some way, anchovies are not pasteurized before they are canned. Tinned anchovies are simply cured in salt before being processed and packaged in oil. This means the raw, cured fish can still grow microbes as it sits, so while the harmful bacteria has been killed, those microbes can develop and play into its fishy taste and undesirable texture. The easiest way to avoid — or at least reduce — that microbial growth is by purchasing anchovies from markets that sell them refrigerated, then keeping them in your own fridge at all times.