The Expert-Approved Technique For Super-Crunchy Homemade Pickles
The perfect pickle is a terrific example of balance. The flavor's tangy yet composed, and the herbal additions still shine. The vinegar or brine (one of the differences between pickling from fermenting) infiltrates the cucumber enough to preserve but still encapsulates freshness. And — perhaps most important — the bite concludes with a perfect crunch.
Achieving such a snappy, crispy quality is often a central aim of pickling and can feel frustratingly difficult. So for some added guidance, we have a crafty technique from Chef Angelo Sosa. The executive chef of Kembara and Tía Carmen in Phoenix, Arizona, and Carmocha and Tía Carmen in Indian Wells, California, he's certainly no stranger to the pickling game.
His innovative method for crunchy pickles borrows from a specific Asian technique; "I tend to use more of a traditional method like Koreans do with kimchi," he says. The process starts by smashing the cucumber — a pulverization technique also employed for Chinese cucumber salads. Next, he chooses to "cure directly to the flesh using a coarse flake salt," which speedily eliminates water, thereby enhancing crispiness. The technique comes together quickly. It only takes 20 to 30 minutes before it's ready to submerge in marinade for later consumption.
Salt, smash, rinse, and pickle the cucumbers
Keeping an eye on the details is critical to achieving the desired texture. It all starts before cooking begins; a cucumber that starts out fresh and crisp transforms into an accordingly crunchy result. It's helpful to take note of the season. "In the colder months, the skins are firmer and thicker," Angelo Sosa says. Next, there's the consideration of chopping — the smaller the piece, the soggier the structure becomes. Sosa's technique of smashing yields a tasty size enhanced by irregular shapes.
Then comes an especially crucial step: the salting process. Much like Alice Waters' tip for perfectly crunchy cucumber salads, the mineral is transformative to cucumber's composition. Whenever the vegetable sits salted — especially when the salt directly encounters the flesh inside the skin — it causes water loss. That firms the cucumber up and allows the subsequent marinade to seep into the cracks. A greater abundance of coarse salt enhances the effect, so sprinkle on. No need to worry about oversalting. Sosa instructs to follow by lightly rinsing the salt and drying the cucumbers to avoid an unbalanced pickle. After this stage, the cucumbers are ready for a bath in an aromatic marinade, where they'll sit until consumption. With the salting out of the way, you can tailor the brine to your needs, both for perfectly crunchy pickles and because pickle brine is the overlooked secret to tastier soups.