What Is Gefilte Fish (And How Should You Prepare It)?

Gefilte fish is a dish made of mashed fish combined with various seasonings and, often, matzo meal, usually in the shape of balls or quenelles. Like latkes and matzo ball soup, gefilte fish is an iconic Ashkenazi Jewish dish. But unlike latkes and matzo ball soup, it has a bit of a bad reputation. Many people who've grown up with these seasoned fish balls (often served in a gelatinous sauce) on their table may not like them, or at least wouldn't go back for seconds. With its strong, fishy smell and frequently slimy texture, gefilte fish tends to be a sort of joke or punchline, or something to be tolerated because of tradition. But it didn't start out that way. It was once a delectable main course. Even today, some gefilte fish recipes are so delicious that people will ask for more.

To learn more about this disparity and to help us discover all things gefilte fish, including how to prepare it, we've asked for tips and insights from two gefilte fish fans and experts: Naomi Nachman, a personal chef, food and travel blogger, and the author of kosher cookbooks "Perfect Flavors" and "Perfect for Pesach," and Liz Alpern, co-author of "The Gefilte Manifesto: New Recipes for Old World Jewish Foods," and co-founder and co-owner of The Gefilteria, an organization dedicated to reimagining Eastern European Jewish cuisine.

Today, gefilte fish is an iconic Ashkenazi Jewish dish, but in an article for kosher food website The Nosher, writer Rachel Ringler reveals that it didn't start out that way. The first gefilte fish recipe dates back to about 700 years ago and comes from a German cookbook used by Christians. The dish was commonly served during Lent, when Catholics weren't allowed to eat meat. At this point, gefilte fish was in its earliest form — fish that was removed from its skin and deboned, then ground down and mixed with seasonings and other ingredients, then put back into the fish skin and sewn up. Gefilte fish's name, in fact, references this practice as 'gefilte' (pronounced "guh-fil-tuh") is a Yiddish word that means "stuffed."  As strange as this meal presentation might sound, it was quite on-trend in the Middle Ages when removing the insides of an animal and replacing them with stuffing of some sort — or even a whole other entirely cooked animal — then sewing it back up (or adding parts of another animal) was a common way to serve food at celebrations. 

As gefilte fish's Yiddish name suggests, over time it also became popular in Jewish communities. The taste was likely part of it, but it turns out that gefilte fish also works well for the rules of kosher cooking. It became a typical dish served on the Sabbath and during holidays. In addition to being adopted by a different group, gefilte fish's form also changed over time. Today, gefilte fish is typically served as balls of mashed fish, matzo, and seasonings. Fish skin and bones are often still used, but typically only when cooking the dish.

Gefilte fish usually comes in one of three different forms nowadays. The first is fresh, often homemade, gefilte fish. There are many variations on this centuries-old recipe, from how to cook it to which seasonings or fish to use.  However you make it, it's a long process, something that just about any homemade gefilte fish recipe you find will mention. Even gefilte fish fan Naomi Nachman tells us that her family didn't always have it every week because it was time-consuming to make. But, she adds, "there's something special about having it made from scratch." Another issue is the strong fishy smell the cooking process leaves behind, something Nachman describes as "not for the faint of heart."

If you're short on time or want to avoid the smell, there are two common alternatives to making gefilte fish yourself. Many kosher delis and grocery stores sell gefilte fish in pre-made, frozen loaves (sometimes called logs). But the third option, jarred gefilte fish, with its thick, gelatinous sauce and slimy fish balls, is what most of us who know gefilte fish are probably familiar with. Nachman says she's "not a huge fan," of gefilte fish in a jar, and that while it's available in the kosher section of numerous grocery stores, "I would love to meet someone who actually loves it." Liz Alpern takes a similar, albeit more diplomatic view, telling us, "Jarred gefilte fish was never something I liked and I strongly encourage everyone to think outside the jar and make their own. That said, I know that it's a nostalgic dish for many and I respect its devotees."

Gefilte fish was adopted by Eastern European Jews centuries ago at least in part because it was a perfect food to serve on the Sabbath and during holidays. For most practicing Jews, cooking on the Sabbath is forbidden, as is picking bones out of fish or meat. Gefilte fish can be prepared in advance and served cold, and has also been deboned, so it completely follows these rules. As a bonus, in Judaism, fish is a symbol of fertility, so its presence at the dinner table can be seen as a blessing. There's also a practical advantage to gefilte fish that added to its popularity. Many Eastern European Jews struggled with poverty, and this meal let them serve fish to all of their family and guests because it could be combined with more affordable ingredients like matzo meal and vegetables to increase portion size. 

And so, gefilte fish became an iconic part of many Ashkenazi Jewish holiday or Sabbath meals. But like an old, grumpy uncle, its presence is traditional and reassuring though not always enjoyed. It's hard to find a lot of die-hard gefilte fish fans. Part of the reason for this is likely because so many of us only know the jarred variety, which isn't the dish's ideal form. But it may also simply come down to palette and personal taste. Even Naomi Nachman, a fan of gefilte fish, believes that you have to really grow up on it to love it. For Liz Alpern, gefilte fish is "delicious" but with a caveat: "when done right."

You can make gefilte fish with any kind of fish. Traditionally, this would be a freshwater fish, recalling the dish's roots in Eastern Europe, where there were lots of rivers and lakes and not as much coastline. But there are some notable exceptions. For instance, Rachel Ringler reports that Jewish people from England tend to use cod and other saltwater fish in their gefilte fish recipes since that was what was more easily available. 

Liz Alpern, a fan of using freshwater fish, tells us, "I've almost never met a fresh fillet that I couldn't transform into fantastic gefilte fish (and I've used MANY kinds of fish over the years)." She adds, "I think fresh, local, and sustainable is the only way to go these days." In addition to freshness and, ideally, sustainability, you should also consider how fatty the fish you're choosing is. For the ultimate taste and texture experience, chef Itta Werdiger-Roth advises cooks to use both fatty and firm white-fleshed fish. For instance, she suggests either using a whole fish like whitefish, which fits both categories, or half of a fatty fish like carp with half of a firm fish like pike.

If you're feeling inspired to make your own gefilte fish, you're in luck — there are many homemade gefilte fish recipes in cookbooks and online. Each will usually have its own approach to cooking the fish, including tips for certain steps along the way, not to mention the choice of seasonings. But essentially, to make gefilte fish from scratch, you'll need to skin and debone your fish of choice, something that you can ask a fish dealer to do for you, if you want. The fish meat is boiled along with its skin and bones, then the softened pieces of fish are removed and mashed in a blender along with the seasonings and additional ingredients. These often include chopped carrots, onions, celery, salt, and pepper. Many recipes also call for matzo meal. 

When that's done, you form the mixture into balls, which you'll add back into the pot and boil or poach, depending on your recipe. You can serve the gefilte fish warm, or let it cool and store the balls in the broth in the refrigerator. The broth will become a gelatinous texture and can be served in a separate bowl alongside the gefilte fish. Not everyone is a fan of the sauce, but Naomi Nachman loves it, telling us, "I could drink it with a spoon."

The errors you're most likely to make when cooking gefilte fish will probably have to do with the dish's two biggest disadvantages: time and odor. Although the FAQ section on Liz Alpern's website, The Gefilteria, points out that nowadays it's easy to take some shortcuts, like using a food processor, making gefilte fish still takes 90 minutes at best, and many recipes take a lot longer. As for the smell, most cooks will, at the very least, tell you to open every possible window and door to air out the house. Others also advise cooking a few days in advance (and airing out the house) so that the smell will be gone when your guests come. Alpern also says to keep all bedroom doors closed. 

Another potential gefilte fish no-no is more of an opinion than a fact, but it's still worth considering. Naomi Nachman says you shouldn't leave out the sugar, telling us, "My father's mother used to make a Russian style with salt and pepper only. No one liked it. My mother's mother made a sweet one. Her background was Polish and it was out of this world." That said, not everyone would agree. Like New York vs. Chicago-style pizza, gefilte fish has its own culinary and geographic divide. Journalist Vicki Hyman reports that an academic study established "a north-south boundary east of Warsaw that has come to be known as the gefilte fish line: The Polish Jews to the west preferred theirs sweet, and the Litvaks and Ukrainians on the east side liked theirs with lots of salt and pepper." If you don't have a go-to gefilte fish recipe yet, consider which taste palate you and your guests would prefer.

There's no single great gefilte fish recipe par excellence. Whether it's a family recipe or one you've found online, there are countless spins on the traditional gefilte fish, including the choice of whether the gefilte fish will be sweet, savory, or another taste combination. There are some less familiar, albeit still traditional variations on gefilte fish, as well. On The Gefilteria's website, Liz Alpern and her colleagues share, "In England, they fry it. In Mexico, they cook it in a tomato sauce. In Argentina, they bake it." This means you can get creative when it comes to finding and making your favorite gefilte fish recipe.

In fact, today, bold cooks are experimenting with new ways to prepare and serve gefilte fish. Some have created sushi-inspired gefilte fish recipes, while many others like to make it in a terrine (loaf-shaped earthenware pot). The Gefilteria has a recipe for gefilte fish terrine, as well as a more traditional smoked whitefish version that Alpern says is her favorite. Then again, when it comes to the best gefilte fish recipe, you may not have to do any kind of searching at all. When we asked Naomi Nachman what she thought the best gefilte fish recipe is, her answer was what most people who grew up with the homemade version would say: "My grandmother's — best recipe ever."

Because it's usually made for a family meal, gefilte fish recipes will often leave you with leftovers. Cook Itta Werdiger-Roth takes a reassuring approach to this, writing, "Afraid of leftovers? Don't be. Gefilte fish always tastes better the next day." But how long can you store leftover gefilte fish? If you're keeping it in the refrigerator, experts' opinions vary, with some writing that it will probably stay good for up to five days. But to stay on the safe and fresh side, it's best to eat your refrigerated gefilte fish within two days. Most cooks generally agree, with the consensus being that gefilte fish should ideally be stored in the fridge for up to two to three days. 

Another option for storing gefilte fish is freezing it. Naomi Nachman remembers that her mother would freeze her homemade gefilte fish and then "boil it up fresh as necessary." In addition to homemade gefilte fish, the gefilte fish loaves sold by many kosher grocery stores and delis are usually frozen. As a general rule, frozen gefilte fish will last up to a year in the freezer. To thaw frozen gefilte fish, boiling is a common option. So is what The Gefilteria, which used to sell its own brand of frozen gefilte fish, advises: storing it in an airtight container and letting it thaw overnight in the fridge.

Gefilte fish is usually served as a side dish, but it still has its own common accompaniments. The most common things to serve with gefilte fish are probably carrots and horseradish. The latter is sometimes referred to by its Yiddish name, chrain. Liz Alpern loves the duo of gefilte fish and chrain, calling it an incredibly flavorful combination that opens the palette. On The Gefilteria's website, she and her colleagues write about just how popular horseradish is as a gefilte fish accompaniment, even quoting a Yiddish saying: "Gefilte fish without chrain is punishment enough." In addition to its appealing taste, the team at The Gefilteria also shares that this combination had a practical side — horseradish's natural microbial properties could help make fish that had gone a bit off still okay to eat. 

But not everyone is a fan of gefilte fish with chrain. Naomi Nachman tells us she prefers other accompaniments, including mayonnaise and homemade dips. She also likes to put out a bowl of the gelatinous substance that's produced after refrigerating homemade gefilte fish. "Not everyone serves it," she warns, "but I do and I love it."

Gefilte fish fans would tell you that this dish can be a true delight to eat. Those who keep kosher might say that one of its most appealing qualities is that it's okay to serve for Sabbath and holiday celebrations. But what makes gefilte fish special for most of us probably comes down to the memories it evokes. Naomi Nachman fondly recalls "growing up watching my mum and bubbie make it." Even if your family didn't make gefilte fish from scratch but bought it in a loaf or jarred form instead, it still likely brings back memories of festive family dinners (where the gefilte fish itself may or may not have been eagerly partaken of).

In addition to what gefilte fish means to many of us in terms of our own experience, it also speaks to a shared history. Liz Alpern says, "Gefilte fish tells the story of a cuisine and culture." She calls it "a powerful symbol of the resourcefulness of generations of Ashkenazi cooks. With one small fish and few common ingredients, you could make a robust and beautiful holiday dish."