Calling Bourbon Smooth At A Tasting Is A Rookie Mistake
In the past 20 years or so, bourbon has gone from a casual drink at the corner bar to a collectible commodity. Where once there were basically only major commercial brands (think Jim Beam or Wild Turkey), there are now well over 700 whiskey distilleries in the U.S. alone, with many pumping out multiple brands. As such, the way we taste, analyze, and describe the differences between bourbon and other whiskeys has evolved — along with the terminology we use. If you're new to tasting, it's important to know that some descriptive words have become more useful than others, and "smooth" is not on the Nice List.
If you find yourself at a whiskey festival or organized bourbon tasting, there are protocols worth learning and terminology available to describe the flavors in a whiskey insider type of way. Among other things, the wine and spirits category has built an entire language around every flavor, aroma, and texture of a given libation. You might hear terms like toast, heat, and finish. One term that comes easily to new bourbon drinkers, though, is smooth. In general, if a bourbon is easy to drink, doesn't burn, and doesn't seem to put your esophagus in a stranglehold, "smooth" is a useful shorthand. But the term is one at which many whiskey writers, tasters, and fans bristle.
Why the term smooth doesn't work for bourbon
Author and veteran whiskey expert Chuck Cowdery said on Facebook, "'Smooth' is what you say about a whiskey when you don't have anything to say." There are reasons the pros have tired of the descriptor. You'll often hear connoisseurs utter something about how smooth isn't a flavor. Of course, neither is round, soft, velvety, or even spicy. These words describe the experience of drinking bourbon, not the flavor profile. But the big problem with the word smooth, in particular, is there is no general consensus on what the word even means.
For many people, smooth refers to a lack of harshness and brashness. The bourbon is not perceived as assaulting the senses. But this can happen for a number of reasons. A low-proof or watered-down bourbon will tend to feel smooth, because the alcohol content is lower. A carefully blended, well-aged bourbon can also be described as smooth — regardless of proof — because a balanced blend is generally palatable, and aging in oak mellows the bite of the alcohol, sometimes giving it a rich, chewy, full-bodied sensation. Smooth can even mean the bourbon tastes sweet, rather than spicy.
For some critics of the word, smooth might imply that the whiskey is a simple, one-note product, where they seek depth and complexity in a multitude of flavors — even funkiness and unctuousness. For them, smooth equates to bland. Think classic white Wonder Bread versus an artisan multi-grain loaf.
How to talk about bourbon like a pro
For the record, however you best enjoy and describe your bourbon is the right way to do it. If someone tells you not to call your whiskey smooth, that's, like, their opinion, man. In fact, you'll find plenty of websites and liquor stores using "smooth" as a selling point. However, since it's possible there will be people at a whiskey tasting who frown at the word, it's worth having a few other descriptors in your arsenal.
If bourbon is easy to sip and doesn't burn, consider words like round, polished, or velvety. The whiskey may have a lot of weight on the palate, or lay complex flavors across the tongue. Identifying what smooth means to you is half the battle. If you feel that smoothness is related to proof (rather than, say, harsh flavor notes) seek out 80 proof (40% ABV, or alcohol by volume) spirits instead of cask strength bourbon options. For mellow flavors, look for so-called "approachable" whiskeys with a clean, simple flavor profile.
Does smooth bourbon mean it trends sweet rather than spicy? That's likely based on how bourbon is made. You might prefer a wheated bourbon (where wheat is the significant secondary grain behind corn, rather than rye), which often features a hint of sweetness. When describing a delicious wheated whiskey, focus on its flavor profile. Do you taste caramel? Vanilla? Chocolate? Bread notes? If nothing but "smooth" comes to mind, you can always just say, "Wow, this is delicious," and ask for additional details on the characteristics of your new favorite pour.