8 Fish You Should Never Use For Sushi

Most home cooks draw a mental line between dishes they make at home and those they only enjoy in restaurants. You might think nothing of whipping up a batch of chocolate chip cookies or a simple stir-fry but prefer to leave chocolate mousse and dim sum feasts to the pros. Or you might be among the small tribe of intrepid home cooks who'll try to make anything and everything themselves just because they can.

If you're a proud member of the latter group, you may have considered learning to make your own sushi. Not only would it be a fun tactile experience, but it would also give you complete control. For instance, if you're fond of seafood-forward nigiri –- the compact little lozenges of rice topped with a single, pristine slice of fish –- you'll be able to go beyond the classic fish choices for sushi and use any fish you want. But use caution — just because you can doesn't mean you should. The traditional inventory of fish used for sushi is limited for a reason. Even fish that may be delicious in other dishes may not work well for sushi. To help you avoid wasted money and disappointment (not to mention the possibility of illness), we've enlisted the help of two experts: Michael Morales, culinary director at Sunda New Asian, and Kotaro ("Ko") Sunagawa, head chef and manager at Yama Sushi Marketplace.

Catching a swordfish is a bucket list goal of many recreational fishermen. The big, brawny fish with its sharp, bony sword is a daunting adversary for any angler –- strong and aggressive natural hunters, they're more than willing to put up a fight. And if you manage to catch one (they can weigh up to 1000 pounds), they can make great eating. These huge, muscular fish have firm, lean, clean-tasting flesh that makes them a great fish to cook on the grill –- you can think of swordfish as the steak of the sea.

What swordfish is not great for, however, is sushi. The toothsome firmness that makes swordfish a fantastic choice for grilling makes it a poor match for sushi. "[Swordfish] can be challenging for sushi, particularly when used in nigiri," Michael Morales said. "Their texture is too dense, which takes away from the delicate nature of sushi." Morales added that you can work around this if your heart is really set on swordfish sushi. "Consider cutting them thinly or preparing them in a mixed form rather than serving them as a whole piece," he said.

Diners typically associate mahi-mahi with Hawaiian cuisine, but the warm-water-loving fish has a range far beyond Hawaii –- it can be found everywhere from the South Pacific to the Mediterranean and Caribbean. The name mahi-mahi is Hawaiian for "strong-strong," which is a good description of the fish: It has firm, mildly flavored flesh and tough skin that's typically not eaten. (It does, however, serve the useful purpose of holding the fish together securely during cooking.) Because of its tough skin and resilient flesh, mahi-mahi can put up with cooking methods compared to more delicate fish, such as grilling and deep frying. It's a bit milder and sweeter in flavor than halibut, which makes it a good partner for a range of flavorings –- and this has made it a favorite on restaurant menus.

You won't see mahi-mahi, however, on sushi menus. As Michael Morales explained, it poses the same challenges as swordfish –- while tasty in cooked preparations, its texture is too firm and dense to make a good bite of sushi.

Blowfish, or fugu, is a treasured delicacy in Japan, where it's savored raw in thin slices. This would seem to make it a great choice for sushi, except for one tiny thing: Fugu can kill you. The organs of the fish contain a powerful neurotoxin –- just 2 to 3 milligrams can cause paralysis and even death. Yet somehow, Japanese cooks discovered that with meticulous handling and cleaning, they could safely separate the delicate, edible flesh from the toxin-bearing organs. And Japan's fugu lovers take this painstaking work seriously -– only licensed cooks are allowed to serve fugu, and in Tokyo, two years of specialized training are required before one can sit for the rigorous licensure exam, which consists of a written test and a 20-minute practical demonstration.

While a handful of restaurants in the U.S. serve fugu (it's imported pre-cleaned from Japan and must be procured through an FDA-approved distributor), you're very unlikely to encounter it when you're out shopping for fish. But in the off chance that a friend somehow smuggled some into the country or caught some while fishing, take a hard pass –- better safe than sorry.

Mongchong, also known as sickle pomfret or sometimes just as pomfret, is another fish worth knowing and trying –- but just not in sushi. A deepwater fish of the South Pacific, it's known for its firm, flaky flesh, umami flavor, and hint of sweetness. It's also full of nutrients and is a good source of protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and minerals. And despite its buttery flavor, it's surprisingly low in fat. It takes well to varied cooking methods, from poaching to grilling, but its delicate flavor pairs best with subdued seasonings, such as a light sprinkling of herbs.

Mongchong's flavor profile would seem to make it a perfect match for sushi. Unfortunately, however, it may not be a safe choice. "Fish like mongchong carry parasites that can be harmful if not properly handled," Michael Morales said. Indeed, parasites such as worms are common in many types of wild-caught fish -– so much so that commercial fish processors routinely inspect cod by candling, a process of holding fish filets up to light so processors can find and remove any parasites. These tiny critters die during cooking, but in raw fish preparations such as sushi, they can survive and cause trouble for humans who ingest them.

Mackerel, both raw and cooked, makes frequent appearances on sushi menus in Japan, where diners have long appreciated its rich flavor. The raw form that appears in sushi typically comes lightly pickled in rice vinegar and salt, a process originally developed to extend the freshness of the delicate, highly perishable fish.

Ko Sunagawa, however, holds a contrarian view of mackerel. "While it's popular, I recommend that customers avoid eating mackerel fish or (saba in Japan) in a raw state because that fish has a higher number of parasites," he said. "Mackerel, normally from Norway, always should be enjoyed fully cooked, as this process kills all parasites." Fortunately, many varieties of mackerel sushi feature grilled or seared fish, which also makes them more appealing to eaters unaccustomed to eating raw fish. But if you do want to try mackerel raw, Michael Morales recommends a way to reduce your risk with any raw fish. "To ensure safety, it's best to freeze the fish before serving raw, as freezing kills parasites and makes it safe for consumption," he said.

Saury, also known as mackerel pike, looks a bit like a mackerel –- both are long, sleek, silvery fish with rich, fatty flesh. Despite their resemblance, saury and mackerel are unrelated fish from different genetic families. In Japan, saury are at their fattest and tastiest in the fall, which is why they're a seasonal favorite there. While not traditionally used in sushi, modern sushi chefs have adopted it and treated it much like mackerel, curing it in salt and citrus juice before serving it raw or searing it for a lightly cooked sushi topping.

While Ko Sunagawa enjoys saury, he does not feel it belongs in sushi. "The saury fish (sanma in Japan) is very common and popular in Japan as it is enjoyed grilled or fried," he said. "In fact, it is a very tasty fish when cooked. However, because of the many bones, this fish is not recommended for sushi or sashimi." This is an especially good point for home cooks new to sushi making –- there's no need to create more work for yourself than necessary.

Salmon is among the most commonly used fish for sushi, and it shows up on pretty much every Stateside sushi menu. And for many of us, salmon was our introduction to the world of sushi: Americans' familiarity with uncooked salmon preparations such as lox likely makes salmon sushi an easier sell for otherwise hesitant diners. But once these doubters try it, its pretty pink hue and rich flavor and texture keep bringing them back for more.

But bear in mind that not all salmon are created equal. While some seafood connoisseurs insist that wild-caught salmon is more flavorful and nutritious than farmed salmon (and can even distinguish subtle differences in flavor and texture between different salmon species), wild salmon, tasty as it may be, is not a safe choice for sushi. Like many other wild fish, wild salmon are prone to carrying parasites, which make it risky to consume raw. Farmed salmon, on the other hand, are much safer since their diet and environment throughout their lives are controlled to keep them parasite free. Thus, virtually all the salmon you've enjoyed at your favorite sushi bar has been farmed.

Historically, cod was a workhorse in European and early American kitchens. Salted and dried, it could last for years without refrigeration, and salt cod is easy to rehydrate and cook into tasty and nourishing fritters, stews, and more. When fresh, cod makes great fish and chips and is terrific baked or simmered into a chowder. The pursuit of cod was considered so important that it was even a major driver behind European settlement in what is now the northeastern United States -– cod were plentiful off the North American coast year-round, while they only frequented European waters in the summer.

Cod's popularity has waned with the depletion of wild cod stocks and changing fashions in food. But the fish is no less tasty than it was before, and if you're a fan of its clean, mild flavor, you may have considered trying it out in sushi. Don't be tempted –- cod is notorious for carrying cod worms, so much so that restaurants regularly inspect pieces of cod over a lightbox to find and remove them before cooking. Cooking will kill any worms that remain, but if you eat cod raw, you may accidentally consume a live one. While these critters are more off-putting than dangerous (they'll likely pass right through you without you realizing they were ever there), in some cases, they can survive long enough to attach to your stomach and cause gastric distress.

No matter what fish you choose for your sushi, your first priority should be freshness. If you're choosing whole fish, our experts recommend that you look closely at the eyes. "All chefs look at the eyes of the fish to see if they look healthy," Ko Sunagawa said. "Although this comes easily with years of experience, shoppers can inspect the eyes of a fish to see if there is any blood or evident disease. If the eyes look cloudy or sunken, that could indicate spoilage or sub-optimal quality for eating raw." Michael Morales agrees. "The eyes should be clear and bright," he said.

You should also do your due diligence when choosing cut fish. "When shopping for fish that is already cleaned and deboned, it is always important to make sure that the color of the fish is very vibrant, and the smell of the fish is clean," Sunagawa said. "Any overly 'fishy' smell indicates the fish is not fresh." In addition, Morales recommends a touch test. "The flesh should not be not sticky or tacky to the touch," he said.

Where you buy your fish for sushi can be just as important as what you buy. "When selecting fish for sushi, it's essential to source it from a reputable vendor or store," Michael Morales said. Because you need the freshest, best-quality fish possible, you want to get it from a source who can vouch for its quality and provenance. This is critical because fraud in the seafood industry is a serious problem. For instance, studies have found that less desirable fish types are mislabeled as more popular varieties, such as red snapper and salmon, up to 70% of the time. As a result, home cooks who lack the experience to identify similar fish species at a glance (that would be most of us) can easily fall victim to fishy scams.

Ideally, you should find a reputable fishmonger and cultivate a relationship with them. If you're lucky, you'll find a pro who works directly with local fishermen and can tell you exactly which boat your fish was caught from and where it was caught.  A more practical and realistic tactic for most shoppers, however, is to look for a local seafood shop that passes the smell test –- the display cases should be pristine and stocked with fresh ice, the fish should look fresh, firm, and bright, and labels should show the provenance of the fish.

For an amateur sushi chef, the sight of a well-stocked seafood display can be an invitation to experiment –- which unfamiliar but tantalizingly fresh fish will become the centerpiece of your next sushi masterpiece? But as we've seen, even fish that are delicious when cooked can be unpleasant or even unsafe when eaten raw. If you're curious to try something new but are unsure if it will be a good option for sushi, there's one way to find out: Ask.

"If you're unsure about a particular fish, the best advice is to consult with your fishmonger," Michael Morales said. "They are an excellent resource and can offer guidance on how to prepare unfamiliar fish properly for sushi. A knowledgeable fishmonger can help ensure you're selecting the right fish for your needs." Or, if you're unsure what will work and don't have time for a lot of discussion, stick to the classics. "In the U.S., the best rule of thumb when buying fish is to just stick to the basics of what sushi bars and restaurants typically serve," Ko Sunagawa said. "Atlantic salmon, ahi tuna, bluefin tuna, and yellowtail are always the most popular and easiest to prepare."